Wednesday, November 9, 2011

For Anna at Knock Off Wood

So we all know that in addition to designing my own furniture and castles, I do love Anna's website for inspiration and ideas. I have used a couple of her plans lately so I wouldn't have to work through it myself. The dining room chairs are one of them. Well, I modified her wonderful plans to accommodate our slightly larger frames. As my readers know already I have 4 of the original chairs built and we have dubbed them the "Kid's Chairs". I modified it to be wider and taller backed for comfort for us curvier adults. 

Per her request, she wanted to see my cut list. Below is the original plans and my modifications. Oh and Anna, great job on the Momplex!!!


Anna's Original Cut List (For Chair on Left)

2 – 2×2 @ 18 1/8″ (one end cut at 15 degrees, measurement to long point)
2 – 2×2 @ 15 3/8″ (one end cut at 15 degrees, measurement to long point)
2 – 1×2 @ 16 3/16″ (one end cut at 15 degrees, measurement to long point)
1 – 1×2 @ 14 1/2″ (Front Apron)
1 – 2×2 @ 14 1/2″ (Back Support)
1 – 2×2 @ 13″ (Back Base Support)
2 – 2×2 @ 16″ (Front Legs)
2 – 1×3 @ 14 1/2″ (Front and Back Aprons)
2 – 2×3 @ 13 1/2″ (one end cut at 15 degrees off square, measurement to short point)
2 – 2×2 @ 16 9/16″ (Both ends cut at 15 degrees, parallel to each other)

My Modified Larger Chairs (For Chair on Right)

2 – 2×2 @ 24 1/8″ (one end cut at 15 degrees, measurement to long point)
2 – 2×2 @ 18 3/8″ (one end cut at 15 degrees, measurement to long point)
2 – 1×2 @ 19 3/16″ (one end cut at 15 degrees, measurement to long point)
1 – 1×2 @ 18″ (Front Apron)
1 – 2×2 @ 18″ (Back Support)
1 – 2×2 @ 16.5″ (Back Base Support)
2 – 2×2 @ 16″ (Front Legs)
2 – 1×3 @ 18″ (Front and Back Aprons)
2 – 2×3 @ 16 1/2″ (one end cut at 15 degrees off square, measurement to short point)
2 – 2×2 @ 16 9/16″ (Both ends cut at 15 degrees, parallel to each other)

Because this chair is larger and heavier, I added corner support (pieces of 2x3 cut with a 45 angle on each side and pocket screwed into the sides) to give extra support to the legs. I also switched from the pine 2x2s I was getting at Big Blue and instead ended up buying some cedar 2x2s for the legs from a lumber yard. They had some really nice clear grain (means no knots or blemishes) for a decent price. I just wanted to be sure those legs were extra strong. 

I have also had to modify Anna's slipcover plans to match my larger chairs.

Anna's Original Cut List for the Slipcovers

2 – 18″ x 16″ (Pieces A for Seat and Seat Backrest)
1 – 18″ x 6″ (Piece B for Front Apron)
2 – 16″ x 6″ (Pieces C for Side Aprons)
1 – 18″ x 21″ (Piece D for Back)
2 – 21″ x 3″ (Sides)
1 – 18″ x 3″ (Top)
1 – 7″ strip 12 feet long (for knife pleats, spice fabric together to create 12 feet)

My Modified Slipcovers for Larger Chairs

1 – 21.5″ x 19″ (Pieces A for Seat)  
1 - 21.5 x 22" (Seat Backrest) I had to make different sizes for seat and back because I added more height than I did width.
1 – 21.5″ x 6″ (Piece B for Front Apron)
2 – 19″ x 6″ (Pieces C for Side Aprons)
1 – 21.5″ x 27″ (Piece D for Back)
2 – 27″ x 3.5″ (Sides) This one can be 27 x 3, but I wanted that extra .5 inch to deal with possible shrinkage and to give the seams a little give since my kids can be wiggle butts. 
1 – 21.5″ x 3.5″ (Top) This one can also have that 3" instead of the 3.5, but I beg you to remember to use the 3 or 3.5 for BOTH. I accidentally did 3 for the top and 3.5 for the sides and it makes sewing the seams a challenge to say the least. Ooops. Hahaha.
I skipped the pleats since my husband admitted he thought they looked silly like a dress on a chair. HA! So I made a straight seam instead. :-)

I hope this helps anyone who wants a larger chair and needed specs. I built and sewed the chairs matching Anna's Plans. I DID add those braces, as well as extra screws to connect the taller back to the seat. This will be hard to explain, but for that joint, I did pocket screw on the inside of the seam so the screw went from the seat into the backrest. Then I did a pocket screw on the outside of the backrest going into the seat. (It wont be seen thanks to the burlap and the slipcovers). THEN I also did a couple screws straight in from the back of the chair through the backrest into the seat. Perhaps overkill, but I wanted to be sure it would be secure. Just make sure it is secure and you should be fine. For the instructions here are the links to the original plans again.




No comments: